30 Years of Refined Elegance: Roger Dubuis Celebrates with the Biretrograde Calendar

As Watches of Switzerland, Experts in Time, we’re thrilled to present Roger Dubuis‘ exceptional 30th anniversary timepiece, showcasing the Maison’s signature blend of technical mastery and elegant design.

Since its founding in 1995 by master watchmaker Roger Dubuis, this Geneva-based Maison has consistently pushed the boundaries of haute horlogerie with creations that blend technical virtuosity with expressive aesthetics. For their landmark 30th anniversary, Roger Dubuis has unveiled an extraordinary timepiece that pays homage to the founder’s visionary approach while reinforcing the brand’s heritage and connection to its origins.

The new release – the Excalibur Biretrograde Calendar – represents a perfect distillation of Roger Dubuis’ watchmaking philosophy. It combines sophisticated complications with distinctive design elements that have become hallmarks of the brand, all while adhering to the exacting standards required for Poinçon de Genève certification.

Excalibur Biretrograde Calendar: Honoring Heritage with Modern Elegance

The Excalibur Biretrograde Calendar pays heartfelt tribute to Roger Dubuis’ very first watch from 1996. This model showcases the biretrograde display that the founder particularly admired and helped develop in the late 1980s alongside watchmaker Jean-Marc Wiederrecht.

Housed in a refined 40mm 18K pink gold case – a more classic size reminiscent of the Maison’s early creations – this elegant timepiece features a day and date calendar with biretrograde display. The silver-plated, satin-brushed dial is complemented by mother-of-pearl inserts at 12 and 6 o’clock, creating a theatrical and eye-catching look.

The signature biretrograde scales are positioned at 3 and 9 o’clock, creating perfect symmetry on the dial. These distinctive ellipse-shaped counters – wide on the outside and narrowing toward the centre – represent a visual code that has been part of Roger Dubuis’ design language since its inception. Skeletonized hands move gracefully along these scales, instantly returning to zero at the end of their cycle.
“The biretrograde system itself requires a complex harmony of cams, rakes, clicks, and springs, which enable the calendar’s hands to move gracefully along the semi-circle scales, and at the end of their cycle, return immediately to zero to begin their journey again,” explains the Maison. This mechanical ballet exemplifies the blend of technical sophistication and visual drama that has always defined Roger Dubuis timepieces.

A Return to Classic Proportions

At 40mm, the Excalibur Biretrograde Calendar represents a return to the more refined case sizes that characterized Roger Dubuis’ early collections in the 1990s. This slimmer profile (11.25mm thick) creates a more versatile and elegant presence on the wrist, while still maintaining the Maison’s distinctive aesthetic.

The combination of 18K pink gold and mother-of-pearl is particularly significant for the brand. During the early 2000s, Roger Dubuis was among the first watchmakers to use pink gold and mother-of-pearl in gentlemen’s watches, demonstrating the founder’s sophisticated and audacious spirit. The iridescent quality of the mother-of-pearl inserts adds a dynamic, ever-changing dimension to the dial that captures and plays with light.

Calibre RD840: Technical Excellence with Artistic Finishing

Powering this sophisticated timepiece is the automatic Calibre RD840, which provides a generous 60 hours of power reserve. Comprising 240 components and beating at a frequency of 4 Hz (28,800 vibrations per hour), the movement has been decorated with 14 distinct finishes applied by hand to earn the prestigious Poinçon de Genève certification.

Through the sapphire crystal caseback, wearers can admire the modernized oscillating weight that pays homage to the Maison’s first design from 1996. This rotor has been thoughtfully redesigned to balance respect for tradition with contemporary aesthetics – perfectly aligned with the philosophy of the brand.

An inscription beneath the sapphire glass bears one of the founders’ thought-provoking quotes: “C’est une montre actuelle, inspirée mais pas soumise au passé, qui se projette dans un futur qui nous appartient.” (“This is a watch of today, inspired but not restricted to the past, projected into a future that belongs to us.”) This meaningful phrase has appeared on previous Roger Dubuis timepieces, creating another authentic connection to the brand’s heritage.

Refined Details and Modern Functionality

The Excalibur Biretrograde Calendar comes with an interchangeable brown 3D calfskin leather strap that complements the warmth of the pink gold case. The strap features the Maison’s Quick Release System (QRS), allowing for effortless changes without tools – a nod to contemporary convenience while maintaining traditional elegance.

The triple-folding buckle in pink gold ensures secure and comfortable wearing, while also incorporating the QRS for maximum versatility. With water resistance to 100 meters (10 bar), the timepiece offers practical durability alongside its refined aesthetics.

Commitment to Excellence

The Excalibur Biretrograde Calendar bears the prestigious Poinçon de Genève, reflecting Roger Dubuis’ unwavering commitment to the highest standards of Swiss watchmaking. This esteemed certification requires that every component be meticulously finished and decorated by hand, guaranteeing exceptional quality in both appearance and performance.

For Roger Dubuis, the Poinçon de Genève represents more than just a mark of quality – it embodies an entire philosophy of watchmaking that goes beyond timekeeping to encompass aesthetics and performance at the highest level. As the brand itself states, it is “a theory of aesthetics and performance, in which the quality of craftsmanship can be most profoundly measured.”

Experience Roger Dubuis at Watches of Switzerland

As an Official Roger Dubuis Retailer, Watches of Switzerland invites you to discover this exceptional anniversary timepiece at our boutique Melbourne. Our watch specialists would be delighted to guide you through the technical excellence and design brilliance of this extraordinary creation.

This remarkable timepiece represents the culmination of three decades of innovative watchmaking and underscores Roger Dubuis’ position as a leader in contemporary haute horlogerie. By combining traditional craftsmanship with elegant design, the Maison continues to create timepieces that cannot be found anywhere else – true to the vision of its founder.

For more information or to arrange a viewing of the Excalibur Biretrograde Calendar, please visit one of our boutiques or contact us. At Watches of Switzerland, we remain committed to our position as Experts in Time, bringing you the finest expressions of horological artistry.

Watches of Switzerland – Official Roger Dubuis Retailer